Living Review Style - Crack The Dress Code
As the nights draw in and darkness descends, the invitations to formal occasions start to flood in
. Well, to be honest I've
Black Shiny Metallic Dress only received one so far. But I'm optimistic. It's the beginning of the festive season and time to dust down my barathea double-breasted dining suit. In France it is charmingly known as le smoking, in the US it is referred to as the tuxedo or tux. In Britain it is sometimes mistakenly called a dinner suit (dining suit yes, dinner suit never). In fact it is a dinner jacket or DJ and that includes the whole ensemble of jacket and trousers. To add further confusion, it is also known as black tie. If you are fortunate enough to be invited to a smart dinner party, the invitation will state very discreetly at the bottom, "black tie". It would be bad form to roll up in anything other than the correct attire.
Black tie is a monochrome affair and my advice is to keep it plain and simple and not resort to colourful bow ties or jazzy waistcoats, as very few people can carry it off. Remember it is not fancy dress, but formal dress.
For many, black tie is a chore. Personally I like it. Even though it is considered a uniform, there are many ways in which to wear a uniform and make it individual. It is the details and nuances of wearing black tie that fascinate me.
I am always surprised at the number of gentlemen who, having accepted their invitations, proceed immediately to their local menswear shop and hire some ghastly cheap imitation with little consideration as to the effect. The whole point of wearing a dinner jacket is to look your best - firstly out of respect to your host and secondly for your own self-esteem.
Now, if you are a young man looking to buy your first DJ and your student loan has mostly been committed to drinking and smoking, then the best option is to seek out a good second-hand shop where, with perseverance, you should be able to purchase a decent barathea DJ for around pounds 75. And if you do get thrown in the swimming pool, it won't matter that much. And the chances are, if you have it dry cleaned, it will see you through a few more parties.
Ideally it is worth having at least two D in your wardrobe, one for winter and one for summer. My winter dinner jacket is made from a medium-
Black Shiny Metallic Dress weight woollen barathea with silk petersham facings (lapels). It is the most traditional style, which means it is neither in nor out of fashion.
If, like me, you are someone who goes to the opening of an envelope, then it is worth having a DJ made. It will not only last for years but will look immaculate. You will even be able to dance in it comfortably.
Dinner jackets are made in a variety if styles and cloths, such as single- breasted with a double-breasted lapel or shawl collar, which was popular in the 1950s; or a notch lapel, as favoured by James Bond in the 1960s. For summer occasions, the single-breasted tends to be more popular and is usually made from materials such as mohair or silk and linen, of course, all in black. The one exception being midnight blue which, to the untrained eye, appears black. It is particularly good when made in mohair and more importantly it is very lightweight. I believe the principles of black tie have evolved from Beau Brumell, who had a distinct dislike of anything that was fancy and showy. What was important to him was clean linen.
To compliment your dinner jacket, wear a white collar attached to a beautifully laundered dress shirt with marcella fronts, cuffs and collar or a simple fine -cotton pleated-front shirt. The shirt should be buttoned with studs and the studs should match the zentai. A simple dress watch such as the Cartier Tank Francaise or Jaeger Le Coutre will add a refined touch.
The bow tie, of course, must be black and made of silk. It should also be self -tying. Tying their bows causes a lot of men a great deal of distress. It's really very simple. Ignore any instructions on paper, don't look in the mirror and try to think of tying your shoe laces. It is the same principle. Don't, whatever you do, resort to a ready made bow.
It almost goes without saying that shoes must be black. It used to be patent only but it is acceptable to wear a plain Oxford as long as they are well
Black Shiny Metallic Dress polished. Black suede shoes are an alternative; the loafer is also popular.
Of course, at the end of the day, people will wear what they want. But I think it is patently clear - and I state this in black and white - formal dress is here to stay.
by: catsuit
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