Searching For The Sun (part 1)

The miles and miles of Peruvian shoreline stage a wide range of encounters between an ocean brimming with life and an ever-changing coastline

. The north shores are tropical and, balmy, and home to deserts like the Sechura, spectacular reefs and placid beaches of glittering sands and golden sunsets. In the middle part of the Peruvian coast pre-Hispanic temples live side-by-side with modern seaside resorts, while further south the desert takes over again in Ica. The Paracas Reserve is spectacularly prolific, providing a haven for condors, flamingos and thousands of guano birds which wheel over Islands crammed with sea lions and penguins, while dolphins, killer whales and turtles teem in the bays. To the far south, the water grows colder and the coastline is more often made of stone than sand, an asset from an aesthetic point of view. That said, and with the risk of making tremendous generalizations, this review divides the Peruvian coastline into five separate stretches.

Puerto Pizarro

The sun beats down year-round in Tumbes. Its coastline is flat, bare of hummocks or islands, except those around Puerto Pizarro, a superbly-located beach resort at the mouth of the Tumbes River 13 kilometers northeast of the city of Tumbes itself. There the visitor can rent a boat and take a swim off Isla Hueso de Ballena (Whale Bone Island), where the sand is bathed by the river on one side and the sea on the other. The place is so quiet that when tourists sail down the inlets of the delta, they will be taken by surprise by the birdsong from thousands of inhabitants in the skies and mangrove trees. When the evening tide rise, the water surges down the labyrinthine bends of the mangroves, followed by boats carrying fishermen.

Zorritos

A little more comfortable is the resort of Punta Camaron, located at Kilometer 1,233 of the North Panamerican Highway. Located near the town of Zorritos, banks of swaying coconut trees shade bungalow complexes equipped that share a restaurant and swimming pool, while the more adventurous can take to the waves for watersports. A stroll down the beach will take the visitor to the neighboring towns of Bocapan and Hervideros, which have thermal baths to offer

Punta Sal

This resort is possibly the most seductive site the Tumbes coast has to offer. This doesn't necessarily refer to the elegant hotel located at Kilometer 1.195 so much as to the small village of the same name, fringed by hills studded with carob trees and overlooking a semicircular bay of warm water and moderate waves. The local fishermen hit the water at three in the morning on rafts made of tree trunks lashed together with rope and rigged with a rustic rudder and square sail. The use of this raft goes back to the Tallanes culture, the first Indians to make contact with the Spaniards during the Conquest of the Incas. The fishermen leave before daybreak and return later loaded with lobsters, fish and oysters, ensuring the area is always has fresh food available.

Mancora and Las Pocitas

The temperature in Piura easily tops 30C, although the water is pretty much cooler off most beaches. The coastline, however is a fair sight rougher than Tumbes as often the sea crashes against steep cliffs. The legendary beach of Mancora (Kilometer 1.161) is a magnet for surfers, especially between November and January, when the best waves are to be found. Mancora abounds with hotels, restaurants and wild nights. For those who aren't lugging a surfboard around, there is Las Pocitas, a natural rock formation by the sea, a series of limpid pools ideal for a relaxing swim. Lovers of hot, mineral baths can head to Quebrada Fernandez, site of a hot sulfur well, where the water bubbles up from underground.

by: Incasway

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