Tease Hair, Rip Jeans, Flirt Like Hell
Toned bodies, cool shades and a sexy strut maketh the man in Milan's Spring/Summer
zentai runway collections MILAN, Italy -Goodbye macho man and enter playboy. The Spring/Summer 2001 menswear collections that previewed in Milan this week speak of a man who is tender rather than tough and prefers the easy road to the fast track. The new millennium playboy inherits the persuasive charm and gold chains of his 1960's uncle, but he is more fun-loving and less seductive. He teases his hair, paints his toenails, rips his jeans and decorates his blazer. He emerges from the black underworld and basks in bright colours. Even the businessman is caught up in the new spirit. He sheds pinstripes for shimmering techno fabrics and loosens his extra-wide sequin-sparkling tie. Tuesday evening, midway through the men's "Moda Milanese" week, Tom Ford for put his own hip spin on the playboy look. The guy likes to take it easy in loose-fitting printed kimono pants worn with matching kimono shirt and canvas slippers. When he steps out, he sports a pair of patent-leather fatigue pants and a wide-lapeled blazer worn over a
catsuits tuxedo shirt minus the bow tie. He likes his hair on the long side and boyishly teased. Ties are extra-slim, slick shades a must. Except for discreet cuff-links on pristine white shirts (with oversized cuff sticking out of the sleeve of a classic daytime suit purposely), the collection is devoid of shiny accessories. The golden quality of the collection is mainly in the tailoring. From Dolce and Gabbana who kicked off the shows on Sunday, to early-in-the-week shows by Fendi, Valentino and Versace, the mood on the Milan runway has been upbeat. To Donatella Versace this means rock beat, and there is much of rock star glamour in her new collection. Models with page-boy hairstyles strutted down a golden runway in body-conscious suits with slim trousers and embroidered jackets. Their shirts, open to the waist, revealed heavy-duty chains and medals. Matching gold bracelets adorned their wrists. Front-row guest Elton John felt right at home. Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi looked also to the golden era of rock music for inspiration. Hip-hugging, low-waisted pants with cuffs as wide as the lapels of the tight-fitting brocade jackets lined in butterfly silk print, spoke of a disco dandy. Ultra sharp booties and a leather lunch box -the "his" version of the all-rage baguette, completed the look. Both in their signature collection and the young line D&G, Dolce and Gabbana interwove rock glamour with contemporary hip. Thus a US$ 30,000 (S$ 51,000) Venetian brocade jacket can be worn with tattered jeans or a classic blue blazer can be paired with sweat pants. The common thread between the two collections is jewels -lots of them. The front of a T-shirt was cluttered with glittering stones, neckties glistened in sparkling rhinestones, and heavy gold chains replaced the classic belt. Sandals were decorated with opulent embroidery. Conservative Valentino shied from the overt gilded look, preferring to draw inspiration from the quiet
costume zentai of the isle of Capri, where the designer has his summer retreat. The show, set at a poolside scene recreated on a mega screen behind the runway, tells the tale of a playboy who sips martinis and eyes the girls behind his dark shades. He comes to the isle in a pristine linen suit which he quickly sheds for a pair of classic slacks worn with a silk T-shirt under a cashmere sweater. His bathing trunks are in silk jersey, his sandals forged in simple leather. Jewellery is replaced by a polka-dotted bandana worn around the neck or a twinkle of sequin on a monochrome tie.
by: catsuit
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