The Unique History Of Silk Fabric

The origins of silk fabric can be found in China

. Chinese tradition holds that in the 27th century BC the cocoon of a silk worm fell into the empress Leizu's tea. When she attempted to remove the cocoon the threads that comprised it began to unwind and the young lady thought it might be suitable for weaving. In spite of the tradition, evidence dates the earliest known silk to between 4000 and 3000 BC. Pieces of primitive looms and cocoons of silk worms date to this period. The oldest scraps of fabric date to about 2700 BC.

During the period 1600 to 1050 BC there is evidence that the Japanese and Koreans began producing silk. The Old Testament of the bible refers to the fabric indicating that it was known in western Asia. It appears that the export of silk from China began as early as the second century BC. Silk found in Egyptian tombs indicates that silk was known in western Asia and Northern Africa long before the opening of the Silk Road.

Silk and bronze coins were used as money in ancient China. A length of silk cloth could be exchanged for goods and services. Chinese Emperors used silk to pay off raiding Xiongnu tribes and bring peace to the Han Chinese. China opened trade with western Asia in the second century BC. The Silk Road refers to the passage used by caravans to transport silk to the west where it would be traded for money and goods. The route was not direct since it was necessary to go around the Taklamakan Desert and traverse the Pamir Mountains. The trade route was arduous and dangerous since in addition to the physical challenges of the journey, outlaws were known to attack the caravans for their cargo.

The Romans tried to prohibit silk clothing. The fabric was transparent and offended Roman sensibilities, yet it was so popular that it upset the balance of trade between Rome and other nations.

The senate was unable to stop the import of Chinese silk. The Romans loved the luxurious fabric.

For millennium the Chinese had a virtual monopoly on the production of silk. In 552 AD, the Emperor Justinian was able to smuggle silk worm eggs out of China. The Byzantine Empire began producing silk, although they continued to import it. The fabric created by the Byzantines was magnificent, but as with the silk worm eggs, they stole their techniques from the weavers of Egypt.

The expanding Arab Empire was responsible for spreading silk production to Europe and North Africa. While the Chinese no longer had a monopoly on silk, Chinese silk was still prized for its quality. During the middle ages silk production was tried in many cities and countries, but it flourished in the Italian cities of Genoa, Florence, Lucca and Venice and in the French city of Lyon. The industry was in Lyon was devastated during The mid 19th century by several disease among the silk worms and the mulberry trees the fed on. It never recovered. Italy still produces silk, but cannot compete with the quantities produced in China.

During the second world war, silk was not available and synthetic fabrics like nylon replaced it. Since then, the demand for silk has not returned to its previous levels. Silk fabric is once again an expensive luxury. While the synthetic substitutes are less expensive and more readily available, they simply don't compare to real silk. As it has been throughout history, silk is still an indicator of money and class.

by: Hendrik Pohl

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