Choosing A Greenhouse.

Traditional Greenhouse:

Traditional Greenhouse:

Vertical sides and an even span roof. Use of space and warmth is effective, and an enclosed lower part cuts down winter heat loss. Choose an all-glass model for growing-bag and border crops.

Lean-To:

Useful for a south or west facing wall. Bricks store heat during the day so the fuel bill is reduced. Most suitable option for a conservatory, an inter-connecting door makes it a part of the home.

Three-Quarter Span:

Lighter and more airy than a lean-to, useful for growing wall plants including Vines and Figs. Expensive, however, so the choice ought to be between a traditional house or lean-to.

Dutch Light:

Sloping sides and an even span roof, angled glass makes it warmer and brighter than a traditional house. Also more stable, but supporting upright plants from floor to roof is more tricky.

Polygonal:

Many (6 - 9) sides, attractive when they are full of pot plants and placed near to the house. Expensive, however, and not a good buy if you want maximum space for your money.

Dome:

Three advantages, good-looking appearance when filled up with flowers, maximum stability and maximum light absorption. One major drawback is the unsuitability for growing tall crops effectively.

Size:

A wide range of sizes are available. Standard sizes are from 6 to 20 feet long in widths of 6, 8 or 10 feet. The one you select will depend largely on the money and space available to you, remember annual running costs as well as the original outlay. The most popular size is 8 ft. long and 6 ft. wide, if you plan to grow Tomatoes, the height to the eaves needs to be at least 5 ft. and the ridge height about 7 ft. Somewhat surprisingly, it is tougher to control the environment in a small house than in a big one. Increased size reduces the problem of draughts and sudden fluctuations in temperature.

Structure:

Aluminium has taken over from wood as the most popular building material. It is cheaper, easier to maintain and the thin glazing bars mean more light inside the house. The drawbacks are quite small - aluminium houses lose slightly more heat at night than wooden ones and the metal frame arrives in bits and so construction is rather more difficult.

Wood is considered by most people to be more attractive. If you go for a wooden construction buy Western Red Cedar, Teak or Oak. Cheap wood has to be painted regularly with a long lasting preservative.

Galvanised iron houses are no longer popular. Paint them with a rust-destroying paint such as Bio Rusty immediately as the protective coating of zinc becomes scratched after a couple of years and rust will quickly set in and destroy the metal.

Glazing:

Buy glass not plastic. Glass is denser, heavier and not as safe as plastic but the advantages far outweigh the drawbacks. More light enters the house, less heat escapes and it is simpler to shade and clean. Polythene and PVC have a limited life, but if you do choose to go with plastic, make sure that it is UV stabilised. Glass has one major problem, it will shatter if hit by a heavy object. If you are near the road or a play area, consider polycarbonate sheets. They have many of the advantages of glass but are lighter and unbreakable. Regrettably, it scratches easily and is more expensive.

Doors:

Hinged or sliding - both varieties have their disciples. Sliding doors can be used as an extra ventilator and they never slam shut. But hinged doors generally fit better and so are less prone to be a source of draughts.

Ventilators:

The ventilators on the standard model are nomally inadequate. You will need both a roof and side ventilator, their total area ought to be 10 - 20% of the total floor area. Louvred side ventilators are better than the traditional hinged types, but make certain that they close properly.

by: Johan Monarrez

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