Great Pointers for Do it Yourself Structural Glazing

Great Pointers for Do it Yourself Structural Glazing

If you are doing, say a small addition to your home or business, there is no reason at all that you can't do your own structural glazing just as long as you have a second set of hands to help on the other side of your window. You see it takes two people to set one in place.

Even so, before you get started there are a few helpful bits of project related info that you should have in your pocket and the first tip pertains to buying your windows. For instance, perhaps you may have been wondering why aluminium framed windows cost less than PVC. Doesn't aluminium last longer?

Yes aluminium will in fact last for centuries but when it comes to dual-pane windows, it's the failure of the window seals that is the issue of concern, and aluminium windows have a higher failure rate. Aluminium expands at different rate than the window sealant which in turn leads to water trapped between the two panes of glass.

So then what about setting your own windows in place? Can't you do it yourself and why do window installers want so much money to do the job when it really isn't that labour intensive? Is there some sort of tricks, or techniques that you should know before you get started?

As a matter of fact there is a good handful of "little things" that can really screw you up if you don't know what you are doing when you go to do your own structural glazing. Also this is why windows and all that surrounds their installation is somewhat of a specialty, and thus the high installation fees.

The first thing that you can do to insure that you end up with a quality installation job is to make sure that your framed in window openings are "perfectly square". Next make sure that they are 5/8 inch larger, both laterally and vertically, so you have room for adjustments. Don't worry because the thickness of the sheetrock will fill in the difference.

Then when you set each window in place, set the bottom end on top of a inch thick shim of plywood so you have space to adjust around the bottom corners prior to screwing the outer flanges in place. Now whatever you do don't "hand bang" nails into the outer flanges, or you will knock it out of plumb.

After you have your window set in its framed in wall cavity on a inch shim of plywood have your friend on the outside "apply some pressure" so it's held secure while you use a pry-bar or a large screwdriver to make your final adjustments. Never screw or nail the top window flange because buildings tend to settle.

Start at the top corners and have the outside helper place a screw or an air driven nail on each side so the window is in effect hanging with no screws, or nails on the sides or bottom. Next check the reveal on both sides to make sure that all looks even.

Then place a screw in the outer flanges on each side of the bottom and one in the centre of the bottom with the window closed so you can see that all looks normal. Now this should leave your sides with no screws in them and what you need to do is open, and close the window to make sure it is operating smoothly while you screw the side flanges.

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