The Ph Level For Your Freshwater Aquarium
Too much of anything, either good or bad, may hurt your fish
. For example, it is said that the stability of a new freshwater aquarium is measured by how an aquarist has, for one, a good eye for so-called pH level. Of course, we love success measured in a multiplication of our investment, literally and metaphorically. While it is true that this part of the hobby is a frustration among many new aquarium owners, the principle behind knowing, understanding and maintaining a pH level is actually very simple. This information should benefit everyone as it is always best to learn about any hobby before you spend any money and continue to learn long after the initial lessons, all of the time. Adjusting the pH level is such a common problem but is easy though not that simple to resolve, and does take an understanding. What then is pH level and what factors affect its changes?
The acid level of the aquarium water should be maintained at a balanced level that is within the tolerance of the fish and always stable: not too low and not too high, or else your fish will become sick from the toxins in the water and possibly die. Fish are accustomed to a certain water acid level that is prevalent in the lakes, rivers and seas where their species came from.
Most fish species are comfortable with pH levels of 6.2, 6.6, 7.0 or 7.4. Many believe that the ideal pH level is 7, however this is not the bottom-line in monitoring your aquariums water acidity. A danger to the aquarium is when you cannot maintain a constact pH level within the tank.
Drastic fluctuations should be prevented. This means that a fish can survive better with a constant level of 6.2, instead of with changing levels between 6.2 and 7. It is good that there are instruments available like the pH level test kit that measures the pH level. It helps to monitor the levels when one performs the necessary change of water, whether it is done daily, weekly or monthly. In this case, make sure that the fresh water you put in the tank, has the same pH level as with the previous water that you threw out, or at least is close to it.
In connection with testing the pH level, one should also test the water for total hardness. The rapid pH change from respiration of fish and breakdown of excess organic wastes like food, are dealt with by a defence mechanism in water that is a normal buffering system. Total hardness or dH is the measurement of this part of the waters natural buffering system. An ideal dH reading is considered to be at the minimum of 6 dH. The buffering capacity that is too low means that the ph level of the water will be unstable and rise uncontrolably. Of course, to get some stability, it is better to achieve a higher dH between 6-12 dH. Collectively, minerals dissolved in the aquarium contribute to the tank waters total hardness and thus, also function as part of the buffer system.
One way to maintain the buffer system is to measure what is called carbonate hardness or KH. This determines the presence of calcium carbonates in the water. Ideally, a good reading for higher pH levels, for your tanks KH would be between 100-200 mg/L while for regular aquariums a reading between 75-100 mg/L is enough.
Usually, tap water already has a high pH level. To raise pH levels, alkaline additives can be used to raise the buffering capacity of the water. Crushed coral is also considered a buffering substrate. It is important to be alert in monitoring its effect because at times, coral can really make rapid changes in the tanks water acid quality. It is also good to know that lowering the pH level is more complex than raising it, because this involves the removal of buffering ions like salts and minerals present in tap water.
Controlling and adjusting the pH level is a rather meticulous task of this hobby. It pays to know and understand the nature of water when it comes to water acidity because this is crucial in the life of your fish. You would not like to see your old fish one day floating lifeless in your aquarium just because they were deprived of a constant pH level, which as you can now see is simple and relatively easy to maintain. Once you get pass this part, maintenance will become much easier and maybe fun, and will be less frustrating. Patience and keen attention to detail is required in fish-keeping.
Maintenance procedures such as partial water change and cleaning-up of your tanks filter and substrate, through scrubbing, vacuuming and siphoning are good ways to replenish the fish tanks buffer systems. You should also be aware of the dangerous phosphates in the water and the accumulated debris or dirt that sinks into the gravel beds of the tank and into the buffering materials at the bottom of the aquarium.
For testing your aquariums pH level, dH level and phosphate level, you can get yourself some test kits that will help maintain your tanks water consistancy. Remember that you are striving for a stable pH level that is ideal for the fish and may not guarentee that your fish will thrive, but will certainly keep your fish out of trouble with water acid levels becoming too high. Your test kit will come with an instructions booklet that will have popular questions answered and have charts to follow for reaching a safe pH and will help you with creating a stable pH for your fish tank.
Just like anything new, it will take a little practice and you will make minor mistakes but that is okay as long as you basically get it right within your first few weeks.
by: Bob Finklea
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