Unknown Thailand - Eating, Sleeping And Traveling In New And Eclectic Ways

Thailand is roughly the size of France and enjoys a thriving tourism industry

. Despite the recent strengthening of the Thai Baht, it still offers extraordinary value for money, a warm and welcoming people, superlative shopping - and a cuisine second to none.

Yet the real joy of traveling in Thailand is to get off the beaten path - whether to seek out a deserted beach, an authentic place to stay in Bangkok, or to experience traditional Thai life in its more remote villages and provinces. For those seeking a different Thailand, away from the tourist crowds, we have suggestions covering a number of destinations and budgets across the kingdom. Whether your are on honeymoon, traveling with the family, planning a romantic break as a couple, or a foodie looking for a hot eating tip, we present a number of places to go, things to do and activities to try in the Unknown Thailand.

Bangkok: hotels and good food

As most journeys to Thailand start in the capital Bangkok, your first requirement is going to be a place to stay. Forget the anodyne hotel rooms offering you a keycard and a folio number and opt instead for the much more personalized service and the infinitely personable atmosphere of small scale properties. Ferret around on the web and book a room, for example, at the tiny Ibrik resort on the river, a hotel with only three rooms located directly on the Chaophraya River overlooking the Royal Palace. The property is perfectly situated close to many historic areas and is within walking distance of Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn).

Whilst in Bangkok, it remains true that some of the best food available is not served in five star hotel restaurants and is not accompanied by crisp white lined or crystal glasses. The locals know this: when you chance across a packed roadside stall and see a broad array of vehicles parked nearby - from a battered tuk-tuk to a stretch of shiny Mercedes - you have stumbled over a famous stall that has probably been focusing on just one dish, with the recipe that has been handed down over the generations and jealously guarded by the proprietors. For some local colour, try the excellent Northern style Thai curry called "Khao Soi" at the little shop house Khrua Aroi Aroi, down the side street called Thanon Pan, running next to the Indian temple off Silom Road in the capital. With a thick and creamy curry sauce, a squeeze of fresh lime, roasted chilies in oil, some pickled cabbage and fresh red onions as condiments, delve into this rich curry so redolent of the borderlands of Burma, Thailand and India!

Isan - or Northeast Thailand

Now let's head upcountry. Not to Chiang Mai with its elephant shows, nor to Pai - with its yuppie country resorts catering to erstwhile hippies, now sporting the latest sports car from Munich - but to the rice farming heartlands of the rural Northeast.

Get out of the rice trading cities and into the countryside, where the indigenous farmers still toil the land of their forbears, where life unfurls at a leisurely, bucolic pace - and where a serene beauty is to be found by those who seek it. The region, often shunned by more affluent Bangkokians, offers stunning scenery, exquisite food, historical remains, and authentic off the beaten path experiences amongst extremely hospitable locals.

Travel to Udon Thani, one of the Northeast's major cities located just south of Nong Khai and the border with Laos over the Mekong river. Approximately 30 minutes out of town, and accessed by a free transfer service, lies Gecko Villa, set among rice paddies, plantations and pastures, its private saltwater swimming pool gurgling away in the most tranquil of settings. The villa sleeps two to six, and guests are looked after throughout their stay by an indigenous Northeaster (or "Isan") family living in a village ten minutes or so away from the property. Fresh Thai meals are prepared daily at no additional charge, and whilst you may be tempted to simply relax by the pool with a good book (and perhaps a traditional Thai massage), there are plenty of activities to keep you occupied - from learning how to cook local specialties, to visiting the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ban Chiang or local silk weaving villages, to exploring the untouched villages by bicycle or tuk tuk, to trying one's hand in the rice paddies or hunting for food at night, to trips on the local lotus lake in a traditional wooden boat (an excellent subject guaranteeing the keen photographer some stunning images!) Stays at Gecko Villa offer guests an authentic Thai experience, far from the madding tourist crowds, and at a property rooted in the principles of responsible travel where all proceeds remain in the village. For those seeking the ultimate in comfort, their sister properties Green Gecko and Rice Paddy Villa will fit the bill.

The Thai Food Court - Eating Thai style

Wherever you are in Thailand, a phenomenon that has grown in every major centre is the Food Court - a collection of food vendors specializing either in a single dish or in a limited number of dishes, prepared freshly and sold at highly competitive prices, often under one US Dollar. These often confuse the Western visitor with their alien coupon system and lack of spoken English, yet the rules are strikingly simple. First, locate the Coupon Centre - a counter clearly selling what appear to be either plastic credit cards or paper vouchers. Approach the counter and give the attendant a one hundred Baht bill, taking the card or voucher. Now, wander along the stalls and make your choice of meal from the array of Thai dishes: simply point to the dish, to a picture of your chosen plate, or to someone who has managed to secure exactly what you want. Having been served, hand over the card which will be debited, or vouchers to the total amount of the meal. Located the chopsticks and cutlery, sit down and enjoy your meal, and then having dined like a king for a few Baht, take the card or remaining vouchers back to the coupon stall to be refunded the unused balance. Once you know what you rare doing it is spectacularly simple, and you will be back for more!

Getting Around Thailand

Many visitors to the kingdom fly on Thai Airlines as they are unaware of the budget carriers operating in the country. Don't book your domestic travel on Expedia, but head to the websites of Air Asia or Nok Air for the most competitive fares. Bangkok Air offers both regional and domestic routes, although its fares are often equal to, or higher than, those of the other Thai airlines.

For train travel, leave plenty of time and choose your class carefully - the difference between a third class seat and first class private cabin may not be huge in currency terms, but the levels of service and cabin quality are at opposite ends of the same scale. The authoritative site, The Man in Seat 61, gives full details on the cabins and routes available, as well as suggesting where to buy your tickets online.

So, ditch the tour operator brochures and your Lonely Planet, and experience the Thais' Thailand. Take the back streets rather than the main thoroughfares; choose a budget airline over the national carrier, discover the vibrant northeast, and dig into some excellent, a la minute Thai food. You will experience a whole new Thailand and enjoy the visit so much more!

by: James Macintosh

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