Reviewing Fine Wine - A Kosher Tishbi Estate Israeli Cabernet Sauvignon

I first noticed this wine because of its attractive label featuring a small photo of the winery's founding couple and the founding date, 1882

. The label didn't say so but Michael Chamiletzi was chosen by Baron Edmund de Rothschild to plant and develop wines in late Nineteenth Century Palestine. Now this winery is run by a member of the family's fourth generation. All their wines are Kosher for Passover and vegan as well. This particular Cabernet Sauvignon comes from three different Israeli vineyards. The companion wine is a sweet (or perhaps semi-sweet) kosher California Cabernet Sauvignon that comes in at about $10.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Tishbi Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 13.6% alcohol about $20

Because there were no marketing materials (no I didn't lose them, I bought this wine a month ago) I'll quote the back label. The grapes for this wine were hand-picked. The wine was produced from the free-run juice of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc grapes. It was aged for 12 months in French and American oak barrels. A balanced blend of elegant flavors of plums, raspberry, cassis, and black forest berries together with gentle hints of mocha, vanilla, and honey derived from the barrel aging. It has a velvety texture and sweet finish. Deep and intense in color. The wine was neither filtered nor clarified. Good for drinking now or further aging in a dark, cool place. And now for my review.

At the first sips I was really pleased with the great combination of fruits, light tannins, and acidity. The first meal was a slow-cooked London Broil with potatoes and chick peas. The wine became a bit more acidic generating tobacco and plums. A little sip went a long, long way and stayed around for quite a while. I have been tasting some expensive wines recently and rarely get this much power. The chick peas didn't change things for this wine; it rolled right over them. When accompanying the potatoes the tobacco intensified; this wine has it. With the final component a tomato, onion, green pepper, and lime salsa the predominant taste was chocolate.

The next meal centered on barbecued chicken thighs, both honey and garlic, and tomato based. With the first thighs the Cab was dark and mouth filling; I noted tobacco, light tannins, and fine acidity. With the tomatoey thighs the wine was slightly more acidic and the tobacco was more prominent. The side dish of potatoes roasted in chicken fat was quite greasy. The wine overwhelmed the grease and the dominant flavor was dark plums. The meal's final component was Moroccan-style carrots in cumin (the sliced green olives were gone). I got chocolate as well. The wine was slightly weakened but was still powerful.

My final meal was a boxed vegetarian baked Ziti Sicilian style. The wine was light but very powerful. The tastes included plums, raspberries, and chocolate. There were light tannins and balanced acidity. Fresh strawberries definitely muted the wine. With fruit juice candy the Cab partially regained its strength.

Before going to the traditional cheeses I'd like to quote my wife who usually does not care for wine. "Slow motion, explodes in the mouth. It gets better and better. It's not bitter. It soaks so deep in the mouth. It has an even stronger taste when you swallow."

Prior to the traditional two cheeses I paired this Cabernet Sauvignon with schmaltz herring in oil. The strong tasting herring disappeared into the wine. This wine was clearly dominant with dark plums, and balanced acidity and tannins. The mild brick cheese actually brought down the wine a notch. When paired with a better tasting Muenster cheese the Cab came back but not completely. I guess this isn't a wine for cheese. Frankly, outside of these tests, why would I want to pair a fine wine with a middling cheese?

Final verdict. This is one of the best wines that I have tasted in a long time. I have seen it for sale on the Internet at $20 a bottle and would not hesitate to pick up a case at that price or even more. I will be actively looking for more wines from this producer in all price ranges.

by: Levi Reiss

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