The New Slim Suiting – Fashion vs. Classic
If you have noticed that even your classic suits are slimmer these days you are correct
. Men's suiting manufacturers - even the venerable old Brooks Brothers have been changing their patterns and designs. However, because suits are such major purchases, you are likely going to want your trendier garments to be reflected more in your casual wardrobe - yet you still don't want to be stodgy. How should you reconcile "fashion" with "classics"?
I suggest you start from the premise of what looks best on you. Use your own body's natural proportions as a guide. The most attractive visage is going to be a suit in harmony with your own shape. If your head is wide, wider jacket shoulders will provide a good balancing frame. If narrow, your jacket can successfully have sloping shoulders. If you are taller the gorge (the meeting place between the collar and the lapel) is better off lower than a shorter man who can be elongated with the peak of his lapel being higher. And regarding peaked lapels, the peak in itself is a "widener" and draws the eyes outward, but a wide lapel such as this would be best on a relatively broad man, as opposed toa narrower man who can carry a slim notched lapel in perfect proportion.
When you are suit shopping, of course you can ask the salesperson, but if you find yourself alone for a bit, look at the lapel of the jacket for the first clue about the general cut of the suit. Classic measures 3. 5 inches at the widest point. These days, this is the widest and most traditional of the options. Visually, most men can easily bring that down to 3 inches to feel more contemporary. A lapel of 2. 5 would definitely be considered as narrow, and the cut of the jacket and trousers would follow course. As would the width of an appropriate tie. Figure the tie should be the same width as the lapel.
When you look at jackets, consider your own body and proportions first, and then "lean" in the direction of what's updated, with out sacrificing the balance and harmony of the suit as it appears on you.
The New Slim Suiting Fashion vs. Classic
By: Ann Lindsay
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The New Slim Suiting – Fashion vs. Classic Anaheim