What Difference Does Interlining Make In Custom Made Shirt?

At the danger of opening this post as a sad joke

, have you ever observed that some dress shirt collars feel more rigid than the others? Well, maybe its not just your imagination that is including that extra bit of stiffness to your shirts. Depending on how they are stitched, the collar is not only different in stiffness but also in comfort and style.

In the world of custom mens shirt, that's pretty much de rigueur that the collars and cuffs should be more firm than the rest of your dress shirt. Except for a few shirts which are sold as active wear or worn at work, most collared shirts are made like sandwiches: that is to say with 2 pieces of cloth tied around a stiff interlining to put in support and shape.

The width of the different underlining varies, as some are created from firm fabric which is like a canvas and others are made from synthetic material similar to dryer sheets. This is really not a bad thing since rock-hard collars are not always pleasing. Take an example, if you go on a first date with a collar that looks bullet proof, you can looked on as too firm. On the other hand, you do not want to walk into a meeting room or an interview with a wrinkled collar.

But beyond the quality and thickness, people who prefer these firm collared shirts are fast to say that the way the interlinings are closed makes a difference to the way your collar for would look in the months to come. Some interlinings are "merged", meaning pasted directly on the cloth to give the surface a more rigid feel. "Not set" collar leave a gap between the fabric and the lining.

While many obsessive Sartorialist favor one over the other, merged and not merged cuffs and collars have their own positive and negative points. Merged collars do not need much care to keep their rigid form, while the paste required to put together the underlining may create unattractive bubbles after being washed more than once. Guys who have more time to iron their clothes can do better with collars pasted on, which are not as level to wrinkling can bend even with rough contraction of the underlining and the shirt.

As for the style, then it would seem that the merged collars are ideal for work, they can actually be more suitable for play. When the tailor made shirt, is worn without buttoning up, the collar does not get ruffled and helps give the outfit a better look even in casual situations. Dress shirt collars which are not merged look better when worn with a tie to make the place of the neck look together but not too strict.

If you are still buying from the rack, then stop doing it right away. Go with custom made shirts and even in them try look at more than just how a shirt would fit and look, see how it is built. Ask the custom shirt maker that how your fit custom shirt will make. The diversity between a wonderful dress shirt and a decent dress shirt is often discovered in the surprising details which many people do not look into.

by: Jessica

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